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Just discovered that OWA_UTIL.GET_CGI_ENV etc is only supported in PL/SQL handlers for Apex configured RESTful services (no idea about the SQL Developer ones). as at ORDS Listener 3.0.5.
So for a query or feed, if you want access to headers you MUST explicitly set up parameters to reference them. For PL/SQL you can either reference them using parameters or grab them using OWA_UTIL.
Probably not that interesting unless you want to grab caller information for queries or feeds.